Pattern Union Felix Jacket

I had the opportunity to test the Felix Jacket for Pattern Union. I made 3 jackets!

My first one is using a fun vintage upholstery fabric with orange bias binding. 

The jacket is a really fast sew, the only thing slowing u down would probably be binding. But even then, it isn't difficult to do at all!

My first and second jackets both have lining because the main fabric is not comfortable on skin but even with lining, it is really easy. I should know, i made 3! 

My second jacket is Chanel-inspired. I used a tweed fabric with metallic threads running through which is so pretty in real life. The jacket is bolero length. Perfect for pairing with practically anything really. 

I used a black trim for mine, but the instructions also has info on how to make fancy trim just like those iconic Chanel tweed jackets. I do love this one. So pretty!

And i did say I made 3 jackets right? 

Here's my 3rd!

This is a duster length jacket made with cotton sateen fabric. ❤

Felix Jacket comes in Sizes 6 to 26 and cup sizes A to G. There's bolero length, mid thigh and duster length. You can make it sleeveless, or long sleeved. There's the option to bound the cuff or hem. It can be lined or unlined and binded. 

There's even video instructions too! It's wonderful. 

Hope my sews inspire you! You can get the Felix Jacket pattern from Pattern Union here.

Winter Wear Design Radiant Rouched Top

So excited to share this beautiful beautiful pattern that i had finished testing from Winter Wear Designs not too long ago. 

I have this thing for gathers and asymmetrical necklines and interesting details and this pattern ticks all the boxes and makes my heart sing when i see the finished product I made. 

This Radiant Rouched Top I made uses stretch crepe fabric from Spotlight and the drape is just perfect for the top. I made mine asymmetrical with mutton chop long sleeves. 

The pattern also comes with a high neckline, normal sleeves/mutton chop sleeves in cap, 3/4 length and long length. 

This green top is made with milk silk, and left unhemmed cos i got lazy and also cos milk silk doesn't fray. (Ok ok I'm lazy 🤣🤣🤣 but u got to admit it does look good unhemmed!)

If you like what I made, you can buy urself a copy here!

Zero Waste Patterns for kids.

If you have not heard of Zero Waste Patterns, start here! 

I recently had the opportunity to test for Thread faction's Zero Waste Collection and I was thrilled with the outfits I got for my little girl. 

What I didn't like about most Zero Waste patterns out there is that they used MORE fabric rather than less fabric to make an outfit that ends up fitting loosely and really heavy (too much fabric!) on the body. This Zero Waste collection is not like that! 

Here's what the designer of Thread Faction has to say about her Zero Waste Patterns:

As I have developed these patterns I have given myself some ‘rules’ to follow if you like. Guidelines to ensure that my zero waste designs are not just a gimmick but designs that you will genuinely use:

1. All pattern pieces for a particular garment fit, without waste, into a rectangular shape. So, although this still creates 'waste' when compared to the width of the fabric, all off cuts are very usable rectangular pieces.
2. I work hard to ensure that the zero waste version of the garment that I create does not use more fabric than making the same or very similar garment using the conventional pattern making method.
3. I work hard to keep myself in check with regard to ‘using up’ extra pieces of fabric in the fabric puzzle. Ensuring that I am not just adding embellishments to ‘use up’ the extra fabric. If it is not useful or beautiful it has no business here.
4. I am very mindful of choosing styles just because they are easier to create using the zero waste method. Asking myself ‘would I have chosen this silhouette if I were using a regular pattern making method?’
5. Also I have tried to stay true to my regular pattern making mantra. I have tried to make the types of designs that my children wear every day. That are easy to make and easy to wear. Beginner level sewing patterns that are simple and gorgeous.

Indeed, I think she did do very well! Look at this georgeous Zero waste pair of long pants!

This is by far the most comfortable pair of wide legged woven pants she owns. If you have made pants before, you would know that there's curves to reckon with and don't forget the front AND back rise of pants are different in height. This pattern took all that into consideration and still managed to become a beautifully drafted Zero Waste PANTS. 

Oh I just love this one. =) 

I'll update this post as I make more from the Zero Waste Collection by Thread Faction. Meanwhile, if you would like to join me in making these, here's a list of everything they have so far:

Zero Waste Pinafore

Zero Waste Capped Sleeved top

Zero Waste Pencil Skirt

Zero Waste Wide Legged Pants

Zero Waste Bow Shorts

Zero Waste Dolman Sweater

Zero Waste Dolman Sweater dress

Pattern Showcase: Hannah Culottes

I had the privilege of testing the Hannah Culottes for Pattern Union. I have never heard of them prior to the testing and I wish I knew about them earlier! Pattern Union's Designer Sarah Pondevie is very conscious of being inclusive in her designs and it shows! I had so much fun learning about fitting and altering during her testing process - now I want to test for her all the time =p 

Her pattern uses a T-body fitting system. 

The T-body fitting system categorizes three basic body types to achieve a personalized fit:

• The Even Triangle has balanced proportions and generally can align their measurements with the bust, waist and hips in most charts. 
• The Low Triangle has proportionally bigger hips, a small waist, and shorter, heavier legs.
• The High Triangle body type has little waist definition, slim hips and longer, slim legs.

Size is selected according to your body type and hip measurement. You may need to grade between sizes, but some of the usual fit alterations will have been addressed in the pattern.

Based on her fitting system, I fell into the Even triangle and was able to make my pair of pants without any alterations!! Of course, everyone's body is different and I would still strongly recommend making a muslin first! However, with the 3 systems, it is much much easier to find a size that will fit your body with lesser alterations then u would need to do if you used a more conventional size chart. 

Here's my wearable muslin done in vintage printed polycotton fabric (those are fold lines from sitting down on the way to the park =p This pair of shorts fit perfectly and there's actually no pulling, I need to figure out a way to go out for photoshoots without crumpling my clothes haha):

 

I was really apprehensive originally about how I would be able to make a fitted pair of shorts with no elastic, no interfacing and just an invisible zipper. But the youtube videos included with the pattern made the instructions really easy to follow. Plus she has all the cool tips and real-life examples in the tutorial to guide you in making the pattern work for u. 

Excited to make my full length culottes, I actually went ahead and made my second pair with Kokka Keshiki Office Street Cotton Twill from Nekoneko. This fabric had been sitting in my fabric cupboard for the longest time, and I'm so glad it's out of the cupboard and into my wardrobe!

Isn't it the perfect print for Hannah? 

I even got creative with my poses and tried an "influencer pose" that I found on Instagram. What do you think?

Fun aside, the culottes were very flattering and surprisingly very very comfortable. I wore this for the entire day at work and got a lot of compliments. It didn't feel restricting at all and the construction of the front pockets served as the perfect "tummy controller" giving my silhouette a nice shape. 

I strongly recommend anyone interested in making a pair of flattering woven culottes to give this a try. I made my full length pair in about 3 hours which makes it a relatively fast and easy sew. 

The pattern comes in shorts, 3/4 and full length. You can find out more about the options here.

Pattern feature: Neck Tie top by Winter Wear Designs

If you know me, you would know that I love me a good classic top in black or blue. It's just MY color and so easy to match. 

When I saw Winter Wear Design's neck tie top, I knew it would make a really classy staple wardrobe piece so I went searching for the right fabric in my stash. I found a beautiful black modal fabric, very thin, with a slight sheen and very drapey - PERFECT! And so, I set to work! 

Projector sewing meant this was an incredibly fast sew. The entire top took me 2 hours from cutting to sewing to finishing. Winter Wear Design's many patterns have projector files and the pattern designer Suzanne Winters take all feedback seriously so she is constantly making improvements to her projector files to make it more user friendly for us projector users. 💗💗💗

I love how this top paired with a cute pencil skirt is giving me a Friday night OL (office lady) vibe. I can see professionals wearing this to work in the day then going for dinner in a fancy restaurant after. 

What is great about this is that with a different fabric you can have a very different look, as you can see from the photos in the listing here or in the blogposts linked below. I made my top with the cuffed bishop sleeves for a soft, romantic look which I felt was very flattering. There's also a beautiful gathered poet sleeve which is shorter and really cute. In fact there are three sleeve options, so you can choose the sleeve option that works best for your shape! 

Let's talk about the neck tie! The pattern piece included notches for you to position the tie as per pattern instructions - great if you want to achieve the same look as shown in the listing photos. But, if you are like me, you may prefer to try on the top before sewing on the neck tie and adjust your tie in the mirror to decide the right angle for you. Initially, I thought I may prefer it tied right in the middle, but in the end, I shifted it slightly to my right and marked the position before sewing. Sewing your own clothes means being able to decide on small things like this to make the clothes truly yours! 

And yes, before I forget, the top can be hemmed the usual way or banded. AND if u band it, technically, you wouldn't need to cover stitch anything! YAY! I also happen to think that banding it means that wearing it over a pair of jeans like this can change up the outfit to a more casual look. So cute! 

And finally, if my make excites you, here's something that makes the pattern even more exciting:

The neck tie top is on release pricing of just $3 from October 7th to October 13th 2020!! 

Then after, it will join the $5 Wardrobe builder group! Yay for a great pattern in a great price!

Don't miss any of the other WWD bloggers' version of the Neck Tie Top!

Wednesday 10/7

Patricia of Sew Far North

Thursday 10/8

Alyssa of The Sewing Goatherd

Friday 10/9

Hwee Ke of kekesews

Monday 10/12

Aurelie of Maglice&So

Tuesday 10/13

Laurie of the Bear and the Pea Atelier

Donnisha guest posting at Winter Wear Designs

All the FREE Children top patterns (unisex) my kids have tried and loved

I wrote this blog post in 2020 as a blog post for boy mums looking for boy patterns. But kids are kids and these top patterns could easily be made for little boys and little girls. So I'm changing it to just a list of children top patterns! 

And as part of this change, I am also splitting this post into 2 - one for free patterns that I have tried and loved and one for paid patterns WORTH buying. 

Excited? Read on! 

Reagan Raglan by Bella Sunshine Design

I've made so so many Reagan Raglans. It's a staple in my boy's wardrobe because it fits my slim boy very nicely (I do blend for this pattern, as i do for most patterns for this slim boy. if u have a slim kid like me, u may be interested in this pattern company that doesn't require blending for slim kids). I loved the cuffed sleeves, and the scoop neck is lovely. I also enjoy color blocking all his Reagan Raglans. A really great free pattern. 

It comes with different lengths so if u prefer a dress length version u can! 

How to get it: Subscribe to their free newsletter. (There's also the adult version for a matchy matchy top)

Additional info:

Fit: Slim fit
Sleeve options: Short & Long Raglan sleeves
Neckline: Scooped & V-neck
Sizes: 6 month to 12 years

Fabric requirement: 4-way or 2-way stretch knit fabric with at least a 50% stretch but no more than 75% stretch
Suggested fabrics: lightweight jerseys with good recovery

Format:  Layered A4/letter Trim and Trimless; projector file (new) . A0 available.

Kids Chill out tee by Rad Patterns

This is a great beginner pattern and the size chart is AMAZING. There's 3 different size charts for this pattern. the one for the newborns to toddlers - when u make a tee according to those measurements, u get a lovely relaxed fit - not oversized for safety. Then the older kids get looser fit to be similar to the adult free chill out tee (as seen in the photo above) And if ur kid is plus sized, there's the plus size chart so hopefully less blending is required for our bigger bundles of joy!! 

It goes up to 18+ then there's the adult chill out tee which continues to cover more sizes and is also free! It's a colorblocked tee so u can use up all the remnants at home too. So really good! You can get the code to get this one for free when you join their fb group - remember to use the code BEFORE you buy it!

Additional info:

Fit: Oversized, color blocked
Sleeve options: Short & elbow set-in sleeves
Neckline: Crew neck or v neck
Sizes: newborn-18mos, 2-18, and plus sizes 2+-18+

Fabric requirement: fabrics with at least 20% stretch across the grain
Suggested fabrics: Knit fabrics

Format: Layered ; projector file, A0.

Rowan Tee by Misusu Patterns

This is truly a lovely dolman pattern that is extremely quick to come together. And it is probably a great beginner pattern as well. It has a slightly oversized fit, with short or long dolman style sleeves. For a free pattern, it comes with several style options including a patch pocket, 2 necklines, an optional inside neck binding and 2 side seam finishes - which is truly lovely. I go to this pattern when i want a fast and furious top made. 

Additional info:

Fit: Slightly oversized, possible color blocking of sleeves
Sleeve options: short or long dolman
Neckline: Crew neck or scoop neck (scoop isn't very deep - my girl is wearing the lower neckline in the photo above)
Sizes: 62 - 164 | 0-3M - 13-14Y

Fabric requirement: Light to medium jersey knits with at least 25% stretch (lycra or elastane).
For neckband: Rib knit fabric or jersey lycra
Format: Tiled print at home pattern in layers (A4 & letter) - 21 pages, A0/Copyshop pattern in layers - 1 page, A0 projector file in layers

Ester & Ebbe top by Threads by Caroline

I made a matching set for my boy and girl with this pattern and they turned out really cute but I forgot to take better photos of them.. (oops!)

Edit: they added projector files! I made another top and added the photo here. They are one of the few free patterns that actually have projector files - a huge plus in my books. This is free with subscription to their newsletter. 

One thing to note about the sleeves - it is on the shorter side. Which meant that if u prefer longer sleeves then u may want to consider something different or alter it to be longer. It's also more slim fit if that is your preference! 

Additional Info:

Fit: Regular fit
Sleeve options: short or long set in sleeves
Neckline: Scoop neck
Sizes: 74-146 (approx. 6-9 months to 11 years)

Fabric requirement:  fabrics with at least 30% stretch 

Suggested fabrics: Knit fabrics such as jersey (cotton/lycra)

Format: Layered Trim; projector file (new), A1 

The following patterns are patterns I used a lot, back before I bought myself a projector for sewing. They do not have projector files nor do they have A0 files. As such, I have not used them in a while. (Projector sewing is so fast, I don't ever want to deal with paper again!) 

But I have tried them and they worked well so they are still listed here. If one day they get updated with projector file, I will be happy to use them again! 

Fried Pickle Tee by Meyraki Patterns

 

This is another staple pattern for us. I like using this to upcycle old shirts too (The yellow shirt is upcycled from his father's old t-shirt!) The Fried Pickle Tee is a loose fitting t-shirt which is really comfortable for everyday wear. The only caveat I have is that it doesn't have projector file or A0 file so there are paperwork to be done if you wish to use it - to be honest, I haven't used this since I started using projector for sewing. 

Still, if you are not using projector, then it's a very good beginner pattern and free with code from their facebook group. 

Fit: Loose fit
Sleeve options: Short & Long set-in sleeves
Neckline: Crew neck
Sizes: 2 years to 12 years

Fabric requirement: 30% stretch for the bodice and sleeves and 40-60% stretch for the bands.
Suggested fabrics: Most jersey, interlock, poly, cotton or rayon blends with Lycra

Format: Layered Trim; no projector file, no A0.

Safari Tank by Meyraki Patterns

This one's not really a t-shirt, but I am including it in the list because 1) it's perfect for Singapore's hot and humid weather and 2) It actually goes to 18 year old sizes which is lovely for a free pattern. I use this pattern mostly for PJs though I can see it working very well for tanks to do outdoor activities. 

Again, the issue is that there is no projector file and no AO. So I have not made this in a while now. That said, if you are printing it out, then why not give this one a go? 

Fit: Slim or Regular fit
Sleeve options: tank i.e. no sleeves
Neckline: Tank scoop neck
Sizes: 2 years to 18 years

Others: Regular, Banded, or Ruffle Hem
Fabric requirement: 30% stretch for the bodice and sleeves and 40-60% stretch for the bands. 

Suggested fabrics: Most jersey, interlock, poly, cotton or rayon blends with Lycra

Format: Layered Trim; no projector file, no A0.

Links here may be affiliate links - if you use them to make ur purchases, I may get a small aff from your purchase but it doesn't cost you anything extra. 

Pattern Showcase: Winter Wear Design's Tourist Tie Dress

Sometimes we need a little special detail in our dresses for them to look interesting and fun. And a really fun detail I liked in some of my retail wear tops/dresses is a side tie - in fact, I own quite a few RTW that has a side tie feature just cos it's so cute and on trend. 

Some time back, I managed to test Winter Wear Design's Tourist Tie Top, Tunic and Dress and it's just PERFECT for recreating the kind of look i love! 

There are several sewing patterns out there already that sports a similar look. But what stands out for Winter Wear Design's version is the fact that hers can be made using both knits AND wovens. Yes! Knits and Wovens all in 1 pattern. 

I made 3 versions to showcase how the pattern will look in 3 different fabrics:

This pink tie top is in a tencel blend, woven. Zero stretch. Made according to instructions in my size. If you use a fabric with less drape, it may not look as good so one thing to note is to always check the drape of your fabric, and for this top, you may wish to use fabric with better drape e.g. rayon, rayon blends. 

This purple top is made using a 4 way stretch modal fabric. It's very light and drapey and it is really comfortable to wear. I made it as per instructions for knit fabric - you sized down 1 size in width. 

My last version is a dress made with 2 way stretch tencel blend fabric. Now, if you are intending to make a dress, you might like to know that this pattern can be a fabric hog. Thankfully, there is a way around that and the pattern has instructions on how to cut the tie portion out separately and hide the joint within the tie so that is definitely an option that you can consider if you wish to save fabric. 

Hope my post has given you some ideas of what kind of top/dress you may wish to do with the pattern. Again, here's the aff link for those interested: Tourist Tie Top, Tunic and Dress

Hacking the Goober Pea Design Sunshine Coast Hat~

 

Most bucket hats are just 1 circle on top, 1 rectangle for the sides and the brim.... But the Goober Pea Design's Sunshine Coast Hat is made from 6 panels and a brim and that was what gave me the immediate idea to hack this into the perfect mesh paneled hat for my little girl. 

My little one is very very active and whenever she is out and about, she sweats buckets. As much as we like her to wear a hat with a wide brim when outside, she often finds hats too hot. 

I looked through my fabric stash and knew that this mesh fabric (i bought it to make bags) matches the rainbow sparkly gold foil fabric perfectly so I embarked on my mesh hat journey. 

I took some photos of the steps so I thought I will share it in case anyone wants to try my hack!

First, you need the Sunshine coast hat pattern. You can buy it here if u don't have it yet, (aff link)

The mesh paneled hat hack will be a fully lined hat with an elastic rim (I used FOE for the rim on the inside. 

This is the inside:

You will need 8 pieces of fabric panel (4 outer, ,4 lining if the fabric will be different on the inside and outside) and 2 pieces of mesh fabric panels. 

I used the woven pattern pieces for this as my mesh and fabric are both non-stretch but you can also use the knit pattern pieces if you wish to do the stretch version. 

I also used the height of the casing piece as a guide to cut out 4 rectangular pieces just slightly longer in width to the bottom of the fabric panels for use with my mesh:

I position 2 such pieces right side facing about 3/4 inch above the bottom seam then i sew it together line 1/4 inch from the bottom of the 2 rectangular pieces.

I fold the pieces down and iron (be careful not to use too hot an iron in case the mesh melts!) Then I edge-stitch 1/8 inch to keep the 2 pieces together. This allows me to have a nice finish for the hat later on. 

I trim off the width of the rectangular pieces to match the width of the mesh panel and set the panels aside.

Now I follow the instructions for the unlined version and sew the 6 of the panels up in this order: 2 woven 1 mesh, 2 woven 1 mesh. 

Here's how it looks on the last step when i put the hat together

Now this is the part that I actually didn't take photos of but i should have - how to line the hat so that the side seams of the panels are hidden. I did attempt a video but I'm not sure how clear it was. 

But here are the steps in words:

1) We now have 4 more fabric panels left unsewn. Proceed to sew 2 panels together on just one side then repeat for the other 2 panels so that u get 2 sets of 2 side by side fabric panels (I'm just gg to call this "lining panel" and it will refer to the 2 panels sewn together on 1 side). The original 6 pieces (woven woven mesh woven woven mesh) that was sewn together will now be called "unlined hat"

2) Cut into the seam allowance at the top of the unlined hat  it doesn't get caught when u are sewing. 

3) Put the unlined hat wrong side down such that only 2 woven panels are at the bottom, then scrunch up the remaining panels on top, then place the lining panel right side down on top of everything. You essentially get a "sandwich" whereby the rest of the hat is inside a sandwich of the lining panel and 2 woven panels of the unlined hat. Sew around the top of the 2 woven panels. 

4) Turn right side out and u would get a lined section! 

5) Repeat for other side!

If done correctly, all the seam allowances at the 2 sides of the mesh panels will be hidden in between the outer and inner fabric panels like this:

Then we are left with the last and relatively easy part. You follow the instructions for the unlined hat on how to attach the brim to the hat. Then for the exposed seams, I used slightly stretched FOE to enclosed them (This also helps create a better seal so that the hat doesn't fly off when my girl wears it on windy days. (You can also follow the instructions to do a knit casing or drawstring casing etc etc.) Adrienne's instructions are 100% better than mine any day! haha. 

And that's it! I'm really sorry I don't have better photos/videos of the last, rather crucial part. Perhaps when i get the time, I will make another for my boy and take better photos to update this! Meanwhile, I'm happy to help you out when u get stuck!

Hope the post helped!! Let me know if you try the hack I would love to see your version! 💓 

Hacking the S.U.A.T Shirtzie Dress

I got to admit, when I first saw Shirtzie by S.U.A.T (Stitch upon a time) I hesitated. Mainly because I seldom wear such low cut dresses (I'm pretty flat chested lol #sayitlikeitis) and the cross front bodice looked really low on some testers! 

However, there was the option of the scoop neck which looks lovely. And what sold this pattern was the fact that there are instructions to guide you on adding bra Cup pockets to the bodice! (That means you can go braless!) Talk about a summer staple! 

You can see that I embraced the cross front bodice here and tried it anyway. I love this! It's modest enough for me that I can see myself going to dinners wearing this (maybe not work cos I teach teenagers and you know how they are!) and the most important thing is this cross front doesn't reveal too much when I bend over =p Yes. It's very important for me not to have any wardrobe malfunction =p

So where's the hack I hear you ask? 

Well... I actually made this dress with 2 fronts instead of 1! 

Tadah! This is the SAME DRESS, worn the other way around! Now I have a scoop neck dress! 

Don't you love it when you can wear a dress in more ways than one? 

I love how the scoop neck is much more modest in front and I can definitely wear this side in front for work while keeping the cross front for date nights. 

But ready to see the backs?

This is the cross front on the back. It fits very nicely and makes my back look really good! And for work, I just wear a light cardigan over it. Perfect! 

 Similarly, here's the beautiful scoop neck on the back!

Are you inspired to try a 2 fronts Shirtzie dress now? Let me know if you do! I would love to see your version! 

And yes, I must say this: THERE'S POCKETS! Pockets is a BIG reason why self-made dresses rock. 

Fabric info: Bodice in Milk Silk, Skirt in modal fabric. (from destash.)