Jeans making! Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans

MY VERY FIRST PAIR OF JEANS! 

I am incredibly proud of this pair of self sewn jeans. I did this on my Brother FS101 domestic sewing machine too. Can you believe that a cheap domestic can sew this? So happy!

This is the Kelly Jeans from Rad Patterns that I had the opportunity to test for. It is drafted for non-stretch denim - this is an important detail because that means that unlike the RTW jeans that most of us buy that are stretchy, this one has to have build in ease in order for it to fit properly while giving you space for movement. 

I made my version in mid weight light blue denim with zero stretch. I made all the options - coin pocket, Rivets on everything, jeans zipper and jeans buttons. Everything. The only thing I skipped? Belt loops. That's right! Why for make belt loops if you DIYed and am therefore sure that it will fit beautifully such that there is no need for belts at all! 

I kinda like the clean look of the jeans without the belt loops too! 

For all my topstitching around the pockets and zipper, I got a matching blue jeans thread which is thicker than normal thread. I used normal quilting threads for the bobbin and only the jeans thread in the needle. This helps reduce bulk and breakages. I also used a new Jeans needles and changed it the moment it starts 'acting up' - after all, you are sewing through thick layers so you may need to change needles more frequently. 

One thing that I would strongly recommend is the initial basting step to check fit. I almost never do muslins for my clothing, preferring to 'wing it'. But for this pair of jeans, I knew I cannot do that - non stretch denim can be unforgiving! So I did the fit check as per instructions - i was a good girl! And thank goodness I did that, I had to let out a little bit of the Seam allowance to get the ease that I preferred. And since everyone's preferred ease is different, I strongly recommend that you don't skip this step! 

Doesn't this fit look very flattering? I'm 167cm tall and I didn't have to change the length of the jeans pattern at all. Even if you are the same height as I am, it may be good to compare the length with an existing pair of pants that go to the length that you desire because everyone's proportions are different! 

Let's talk pockets next. The pockets on the jeans are drafted such that they are lower on the bum. It's a 'boyfriend jeans' look. Not everyone would like it so low and it might be a little awkward if you intend to slip your phone in there. (I tried a wallet and it fitted perfectly in that space below the curve of my bum so I suppose it depends on what you want to put inside also?)

That said, some of you may want to baste the pockets on first then check if you are happy with the position of the pockets. I know some testers shifted their pockets upwards so that it cuts the yoke. Here's a close up to see where the pocket placement based on pattern instructions will be. Hopefully that can help you decide how high you may wish to place your pockets! 

One last thing, I used a lot more rivets than the pattern required - mostly because I am apparently really really bad at installing rivets. So that may be something for you to consider as well - buy more rivets! I destroyed about 50% of the rivets I bought and had nothing left of these rivets by the end of it so... just buy more rivets. ALOT more. haha. 

Thank you for stopping by! Really happy that you read this! 

Valerie Wallet

I had the opportunity to test for Porcupine Pattern's Valerie Wallet and made 3 at one go! 

From left to right: Denim (non-stretch) main /cotton lining, Cork main/cotton lining, cotton main/cotton lining

Here are some thoughts:

It is very important to trim the seam allowance when the instruction says so. The bulk is really thick especially if you are trying to sew with an ordinary sewing machine. Top-stitching through bulky layers would be better done with a 90 or 100 needle and preferably with a longer stitch length of about 3.5.

When it comes to the cork wallet, I found out that it really isn't a good idea to iron cork. So the only way is to simply hand press it as well as you can. Also, cork is not the best material to try to birth so I strongly DO NOT recommend anyone try to sew this with cork fabric. 

In fact, of the 3 wallets I made, I felt that the best materials for the wallet are quilting cottons for both main and lining. It is a lot less bulky and much easier to birth. The overall look is also prettier and you can add the foam lining to give it a lovely professional finish. 

At first I tried to 'label' the wallet with my tag. But i realised I didn't like that look so the rest of the wallets were done with the tag on the inside of the coin purse. 

Another thing that I realised was I preferred that the main fabric wraps around the card slots so that the fabric for the card slots can't be seen on the outside even at the edge. Hence, for my second and third wallet, I made sure to only use the lining fabric for the card slots and the coin purse lining. 

For the buttons, I used metal buttons that needed to be hammered in. Some testers used plastic snaps which looked good too. I didn't have the metal magnetic snaps that was in the tutorial and I wish I had slim magnetic snaps, but I had to work with what I had. Tip: Make sure you have materials before beginning the project! Chinatown is a good place to find notions! 

Hazel Alekmond Batemans Shirt

I pattern tested the Batesman Shirt by Hazel Alekmond and featured here are 2 of the shirts I made - the train one was my first shirt and the dinosaur, my second. 

Hazel Alekmond is a relatively new pattern company. In fact, I hadn't heard of it till I applied for their test. It excited me to see that this Batemans pattern had so many different options. 

I copied this from their website:

Batemans PDF Pattern includes:
• Children's sizes 2T-14Y
• 3 Hem styles (curved, straight & drop back)
• 4 Collars (mandarin, wingtip, pointed & club)
• Includes separate placket pieces to create truly unique shirt features
• 2 pockets (round & pointed)
• 2 Sleeve lengths (simple short & cuffed long)
• Fully enclosed seams using the Burrito Method & French Seams (Simple quick sew included)

BONUS Batemans Adjustment Tutorial includes:
• Blending sizes
• Adjusting the length
• Creating bubble & simple sleeves
• Adding button tabs
• Back waist darts

• Side splits

So many options! Can you see why I was excited?

 

What I liked about this pattern was the fact that I can make a variety of shirts (but I really only want to make the short sleeved, club collar because that is the only kind my boy wants to wear) That said, it is always good to have varieties cos the boy is growing up and he will have other likes! 

Another good thing about this pattern is the inclusion of instructions and pattern pieces that allows us to upcycle dad's old shirts. That way, we can easily create new shirts at a fraction of the time needed to sew one from scratch! Win! 

Full disclosure though, one thing that made me a bit concerned initially was the fact that the sleeves were cut on fold. Yes. Woven Shirt Sleeves On FOLD. The warning bells went up for sure. I was worried about whether the sleeves wld fit properly. But turns out, it did fit. Quite decently I might add. Afterall, the boy did cycle while wearing this shirt! 

The key to it was the gathering of the sleeves just enough for it to fit nicely into the armscye without showing actual gathers that may make it look more like a girly pattern. The result was a rather handsome looking top with sleeves that had a decent amount of movement for the boy.

The only other boy shirt pattern I own is the Winter Wear design Collared Tee and Dress Pattern. Let's discuss the differences. 

There are less options for the Winter Wear's version for a shirt - there's really just the mandarin collar and club collar and of course the short and long sleeve lengths. However, the Winter Wear one does come with both shirt and dress patterns which is very useful for parents with kids who wear dresses and shirts. The sleeves for Winter Wear's version is asymmetrical for front and back and so the ease is good on the sleeves too. 

So then which do I recommend?

I like both patterns and still want to continue to use both for making shirts. But I plan to use them differently. I use Winter Wear's one when I want the cute hem, and lovely broad shoulder fit that I know works very well with my boy. I use the Batemans when I want to upcycle old shirts because it is simply easier.  

Thank you for your time! 

Sewing the Teloujay Bag

My first bag sew of the year is a new-to-me bag pattern from Country Cow Designs called the Teloujay Bag. It was free to their FB grp members but unfortunately the group has been archived. Thankfully, you can still buy the pattern (and it is worth buying!) from her site and it's just £2.00!

This version I made is the smaller one. If you watch her video tutorial, you will know she preferred the tall version, but I kind of liked the aesthetics of the smaller version. Good thing there's options! I really enjoyed the video tutorial, it helped to watch and do together with the video!

The exterior pocket has magnetic clasp and rivets on both sides. I definitely need more practice with my rivet installation cos i spoil about 50% of what i use 🤣

The interior is closed with a magnetic clasp as well. The inner zipper compartment has card slots too. All lovely details that add to the beauty and function of this bag 💗

I used my domestic sewing machine Brother FS101 for this and it was tough going through all the layers especially the last part when i have to edge stitch the top. I think there was skipped stitches even though i went very slow and used a bigger needle. Tip: try to use a longer stitch length (i used 3.5) and a bigger sized needle e.g. 100 or 110. I had to go really slow and even then, my machine still could not take the bulk. Perhaps I shld try to trim the foam a lot more in the future!

I do want a better machine now though. Something that can take thicker layers hahaha. Maybe a birthday present for myself this year hehe.