Tuesday 19 January 2021

Jeans making! Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans

MY VERY FIRST PAIR OF JEANS! 


I am incredibly proud of this pair of self sewn jeans. I did this on my Brother FS101 domestic sewing machine too. Can you believe that a cheap domestic can sew this? So happy!


This is the Kelly Jeans from Rad Patterns that I had the opportunity to test for. It is drafted for non-stretch denim - this is an important detail because that means that unlike the RTW jeans that most of us buy that are stretchy, this one has to have build in ease in order for it to fit properly while giving you space for movement. 


I made my version in mid weight light blue denim with zero stretch. I made all the options - coin pocket, Rivets on everything, jeans zipper and jeans buttons. Everything. The only thing I skipped? Belt loops. That's right! Why for make belt loops if you DIYed and am therefore sure that it will fit beautifully such that there is no need for belts at all! 

I kinda like the clean look of the jeans without the belt loops too! 


For all my topstitching around the pockets and zipper, I got a matching blue jeans thread which is thicker than normal thread. I used normal quilting threads for the bobbin and only the jeans thread in the needle. This helps reduce bulk and breakages. I also used a new Jeans needles and changed it the moment it starts 'acting up' - after all, you are sewing through thick layers so you may need to change needles more frequently. 


One thing that I would strongly recommend is the initial basting step to check fit. I almost never do muslins for my clothing, preferring to 'wing it'. But for this pair of jeans, I knew I cannot do that - non stretch denim can be unforgiving! So I did the fit check as per instructions - i was a good girl! And thank goodness I did that, I had to let out a little bit of the Seam allowance to get the ease that I preferred. And since everyone's preferred ease is different, I strongly recommend that you don't skip this step! 


Doesn't this fit look very flattering? I'm 167cm tall and I didn't have to change the length of the jeans pattern at all. Even if you are the same height as I am, it may be good to compare the length with an existing pair of pants that go to the length that you desire because everyone's proportions are different! 


Let's talk pockets next. The pockets on the jeans are drafted such that they are lower on the bum. It's a 'boyfriend jeans' look. Not everyone would like it so low and it might be a little awkward if you intend to slip your phone in there. (I tried a wallet and it fitted perfectly in that space below the curve of my bum so I suppose it depends on what you want to put inside also?)

That said, some of you may want to baste the pockets on first then check if you are happy with the position of the pockets. I know some testers shifted their pockets upwards so that it cuts the yoke. Here's a close up to see where the pocket placement based on pattern instructions will be. Hopefully that can help you decide how high you may wish to place your pockets! 


One last thing, I used a lot more rivets than the pattern required - mostly because I am apparently really really bad at installing rivets. So that may be something for you to consider as well - buy more rivets! I destroyed about 50% of the rivets I bought and had nothing left of these rivets by the end of it so... just buy more rivets. ALOT more. haha. 


Thank you for stopping by! Really happy that you read this! 

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